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Lisbon in Three Hills
Forget the tram queue. The city makes sense if you walk it as three climbs and two descents, and the whole thing fits in a long day.
Hut to Hut in the Dolomites
Three days on the Alta Via with a bed at the end of each one. No tent, no stove, and a dinner you did not carry up there yourself.
The Night Train Still Wins
Vienna to Venice in a bunk, for roughly the price of the airport transfers alone. What the sleeper actually costs, what it actually feels like, and when it is the wrong call.
The Ring Road, Anticlockwise
Everybody drives Iceland's Route 1 clockwise, which puts the best light behind them for a week. Here is the case for turning the other way out of the airport.
A Refuge at 2,300 Metres
What you actually get for fifty euros in a mountain hut: a bunk, a three-course dinner, and a sunset nobody in the valley is going to see.
Venice, After They Go Home
Eighty per cent of visitors to Venice never sleep there. The city between six in the evening and nine in the morning is a different proposition entirely.
Two Weeks in One Bag
Not a minimalism exercise. A list that has survived fourteen days across three climates, and the four items on it that are doing all the work.
Porto Between the Bridges
Six bridges, two banks, and a river that decides everything. A walking route that treats the Douro as the spine of the city rather than the view from it.