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Lisbon in Three Hills

Forget the tram queue. The city makes sense if you walk it as three climbs and two descents, and the whole thing fits in a long day.

City Guides

Hut to Hut in the Dolomites

Three days on the Alta Via with a bed at the end of each one. No tent, no stove, and a dinner you did not carry up there yourself.

Outdoors

The Night Train Still Wins

Vienna to Venice in a bunk, for roughly the price of the airport transfers alone. What the sleeper actually costs, what it actually feels like, and when it is the wrong call.

Slow Travel

The Ring Road, Anticlockwise

Everybody drives Iceland's Route 1 clockwise, which puts the best light behind them for a week. Here is the case for turning the other way out of the airport.

Road Trips

A Refuge at 2,300 Metres

What you actually get for fifty euros in a mountain hut: a bunk, a three-course dinner, and a sunset nobody in the valley is going to see.

Stays

Venice, After They Go Home

Eighty per cent of visitors to Venice never sleep there. The city between six in the evening and nine in the morning is a different proposition entirely.

Culture

Two Weeks in One Bag

Not a minimalism exercise. A list that has survived fourteen days across three climates, and the four items on it that are doing all the work.

Slow Travel

Porto Between the Bridges

Six bridges, two banks, and a river that decides everything. A walking route that treats the Douro as the spine of the city rather than the view from it.

City Guides

The Faroes Walk Themselves

Eighteen islands, one road system, and weather that changes the plan four times a day. A week where the itinerary is written by the forecast.

Outdoors

Norway by Ferry, Not by Car

The road along a fjord shows you one wall of it. The boat shows you both, costs less than the fuel, and takes the time the scenery deserves.

Slow Travel

The North Coast, Slowly

Scotland's famous loop is 830 kilometres of single-track road being driven far too fast. Take nine days instead of four and it becomes a different route entirely.

Road Trips

The Riad Worth the Alley

The good ones are down a lane a car cannot enter, behind a door with no sign. How to tell a real riad from a small hotel with a fountain.

Stays