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Stays

Rooms worth the detour: guesthouses, huts, and the odd hotel. What you get for the money and who each one is really for.

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A wooden mountain hut on a green saddle below rocky peaks

A Refuge at 2,300 Metres

A tiled courtyard with a central fountain and horseshoe arches

The Riad Worth the Alley

A dark wooden cabin on a grass slope with mountains behind

A Cabin With No Road to It

A quiet room with a window looking out onto trees at dusk

A Ryokan, and What to Do With It

A round porthole window looking out onto a street from a dim room

A Room at the End of the Road

A hotel room window with sheer curtains looking out over a city at dawn

Booking Late on Purpose