Search Detour

Start typing to search the archive.

A Room at the End of the Road

Lighthouse keepers' cottages, pilot stations and harbour lofts: the category of stay where the building was never meant to be slept in by guests.

A round porthole window looking out onto a street from a dim room
Photo credit: Daniele Ursino

There is a whole class of building that has been made redundant by technology and turned into somewhere to sleep. Lighthouses went automatic. Pilot stations lost their pilots. Customs houses on small harbours stopped having anything to inspect. What is left is a set of extremely solid buildings, in positions nobody would be granted permission to build in today, available by the night.

They are rarely comfortable in the way a hotel is comfortable. They are almost always in the right place.

Turf-roofed black timber houses on a green headland by the sea

Not a lighthouse, but the same idea: built for the position, not the view. Photo: Rino Adamo.

What to expect

  • Wind noise. These buildings are on exposed ground on purpose, and at night you hear it.
  • Stairs. Frequently spiral, frequently the only way to the bedroom, and never designed for a wheeled bag.
  • A drying room, which tells you everything about how the building expects to be used.
  • No restaurant. Shop before you go. The nearest one is a drive.

The value of these places is entirely positional. You are paying to be at the end of a headland at four in the morning, and that is worth doing once.

Booking

National trusts, coastguard charities and a handful of small operators run most of them, and the listings are scattered rather than aggregated. Search by the name of the lighthouse rather than the region. Book a minimum of two nights, because one night is a drive there and a drive back.

A wooden mountain hut on a green saddle below rocky peaks

Stays

A Refuge at 2,300 Metres

A tiled courtyard with a central fountain and horseshoe arches

Stays

The Riad Worth the Alley

A dark wooden cabin on a grass slope with mountains behind

Stays

A Cabin With No Road to It

A quiet room with a window looking out onto trees at dusk

Stays

A Ryokan, and What to Do With It

A hotel room window with sheer curtains looking out over a city at dawn

Stays

Booking Late on Purpose