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A Refuge at 2,300 Metres

What you actually get for fifty euros in a mountain hut: a bunk, a three-course dinner, and a sunset nobody in the valley is going to see.

A wooden mountain hut on a green saddle below rocky peaks
Photo credit: Bogdan Siudy

People hear “mountain hut” and picture a bothy: a stone room, a wooden platform, bring your own everything. A rifugio in the Dolomites is not that. It has a kitchen, a wine list, hot showers on a timer, and a dining room that at seven in the evening is as loud as any restaurant in Bolzano.

The half-board rate covers a bunk, dinner and breakfast. Dinner is three courses and it arrives at a set time for everybody at once, which is part of the point: you eat with whoever walked in that day.

A small alpine hut standing alone on a grassy slope with peaks behind

The hut we should have booked and did not, an hour further along the ridge. Photo: Felix Mittermeier.

What is included and what is not

  • Included: bunk, blanket, pillow, dinner, breakfast.
  • Not included: sheets. You bring a liner, every time, and they will sell you a paper one at a mark-up if you forget.
  • Not included: water, in some huts. Everything is carried or helicoptered up, and a bottle can cost what a beer costs.
  • Rarely included: a working card machine.

The lights go out at ten. This is not a suggestion and nobody who has walked seven hours will be on your side about it.

Booking

Open in mid-March for the summer, full by May for August weekends, and the good ones on the high routes go first. Email, do not phone. Confirm a week before. Cancel properly if your plans change, because somebody on a four-day traverse is waiting for the bed.

A tiled courtyard with a central fountain and horseshoe arches

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A dark wooden cabin on a grass slope with mountains behind

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A Cabin With No Road to It

A quiet room with a window looking out onto trees at dusk

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A round porthole window looking out onto a street from a dim room

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A Room at the End of the Road

A hotel room window with sheer curtains looking out over a city at dawn

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Booking Late on Purpose