italy
Hut to Hut in the Dolomites
Three days on the Alta Via with a bed at the end of each one. No tent, no stove, and a dinner you did not carry up there yourself.
A Refuge at 2,300 Metres
What you actually get for fifty euros in a mountain hut: a bunk, a three-course dinner, and a sunset nobody in the valley is going to see.
Venice, After They Go Home
Eighty per cent of visitors to Venice never sleep there. The city between six in the evening and nine in the morning is a different proposition entirely.
A Month in One Sicilian Town
Staying put is a way of travelling, not a failure to. What a month in one small place does that a fortnight across five cannot.
Naples, Read Vertically
A city that goes up as much as it goes along. Four funiculars, one hill, and the sense the place makes as soon as you stop treating the map as flat.