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Detour — The long way round

City Guides

Lisbon in Three Hills

Forget the tram queue. The city makes sense if you walk it as three climbs and two descents, and the whole thing fits in a long day.

Outdoors

Hut to Hut in the Dolomites

Three days on the Alta Via with a bed at the end of each one. No tent, no stove, and a dinner you did not carry up there yourself.

Slow Travel

The Night Train Still Wins

Vienna to Venice in a bunk, for roughly the price of the airport transfers alone. What the sleeper actually costs, what it actually feels like, and when it is the wrong call.

Top stories

  1. Slow TravelTwo Weeks in One Bag
  2. Road TripsThe North Coast, Slowly
  3. Slow TravelTrain or Plane: The Honest Maths
  4. City GuidesKyoto Before Seven
  5. City GuidesWhat a Week Actually Costs

Just back from

A road running into low sun across an empty Icelandic plain

Road Trips

The Ring Road, Anticlockwise

A wooden mountain hut on a green saddle below rocky peaks

Stays

A Refuge at 2,300 Metres

The Grand Canal in Venice with boats and a domed church at the far end

Culture

Venice, After They Go Home

Colourful houses stacked above the Douro riverfront in Porto

City Guides

Porto Between the Bridges

Mist coming off the sea against the steep green cliffs of the Faroes

Outdoors

The Faroes Walk Themselves

A ferry crossing a deep Norwegian fjord between steep grey cliffs

Slow Travel

Norway by Ferry, Not by Car

A tiled courtyard with a central fountain and horseshoe arches

Stays

The Riad Worth the Alley

An ancient Greek temple with carved figures serving as columns

Culture

Athens Is Not Only Marble

The curved brick arcades and tiled bridges of Plaza de Espana in Seville

City Guides

Seville in the Shade

What Detour covers

Detour files from City Guides, Slow Travel, Outdoors, Road Trips, Stays and Culture— and from the roads between them. The whole archive.

Worth the detour

The Arco da Rua Augusta across the width of Praça do Comércio in Lisbon
City Guides

Lisbon in Three Hills

Huts on a green alpine ridge below the grey spires of the Dolomites
Outdoors

Hut to Hut in the Dolomites

A view from a train window across fields at low sun
Slow Travel

The Night Train Still Wins

A road running into low sun across an empty Icelandic plain
Road Trips

The Ring Road, Anticlockwise

The Grand Canal in Venice with boats and a domed church at the far end
Culture

Venice, After They Go Home

Mist coming off the sea against the steep green cliffs of the Faroes
Outdoors

The Faroes Walk Themselves

A tiled courtyard with a central fountain and horseshoe arches
Stays

The Riad Worth the Alley

A dark wooden cabin on a grass slope with mountains behind
Stays

A Cabin With No Road to It

Ferries crossing the water below the Galata tower in Istanbul
Culture

Istanbul on Both Shores

Stories by section

City Guides

Lisbon in Three HillsRead the story
  1. Porto Between the Bridges

    City Guides

  2. Seville in the Shade

    City Guides

  3. Kyoto Before Seven

    City Guides

  4. What a Week Actually Costs

    City Guides

See more in City Guides

Slow Travel

The Night Train Still WinsRead the story
  1. Two Weeks in One Bag

    Slow Travel

  2. Norway by Ferry, Not by Car

    Slow Travel

  3. Train or Plane: The Honest Maths

    Slow Travel

  4. One Stage of the Camino

    Slow Travel

See more in Slow Travel

Outdoors

Hut to Hut in the DolomitesRead the story
  1. The Faroes Walk Themselves

    Outdoors

  2. Four Waterfalls and a Wet Coat

    Outdoors

  3. The Case for the Wrong Month

    Outdoors

  4. Cold Water, Warm Car

    Outdoors

See more in Outdoors

Road Trips

The Ring Road, AnticlockwiseRead the story
  1. The North Coast, Slowly

    Road Trips

  2. Nine Passes, One Tank

    Road Trips

  3. The N2, End to End

    Road Trips

  4. The Coast Road in Bad Weather

    Road Trips

See more in Road Trips

Stays

A Refuge at 2,300 MetresRead the story
  1. The Riad Worth the Alley

    Stays

  2. A Cabin With No Road to It

    Stays

  3. A Ryokan, and What to Do With It

    Stays

  4. A Room at the End of the Road

    Stays

See more in Stays

Culture

Venice, After They Go HomeRead the story
  1. Athens Is Not Only Marble

    Culture

  2. Istanbul on Both Shores

    Culture

  3. The Souks, Without the Panic

    Culture

  4. What the Tiles Are Actually For

    Culture

See more in Culture

More to read

A tall waterfall falling over a green cliff with a path leading behind it

Outdoors

Four Waterfalls and a Wet Coat

South Iceland has more waterfalls than a day can hold. Four that earn the stop, in the order the road gives them to you, and one that does not.

Walkers on a stony mountain path with peaks and forest behind

Slow Travel

One Stage of the Camino

You do not need five weeks. One good stage, walked properly with a bed booked at the end of it, gives you most of what the whole thing is for.

A mountain road switchbacking up a steep green slope in the sun

Road Trips

Nine Passes, One Tank

A two-day alpine loop that strings together the good corners and skips the tunnels. Where to start, which passes to take in which direction, and when the road opens.

A dark wooden cabin on a grass slope with mountains behind

Stays

A Cabin With No Road to It

Renting a Norwegian hytte in the off-season: no water, no neighbours, no signal, and a forty-minute walk in with everything you plan to eat.

Ferries crossing the water below the Galata tower in Istanbul

Culture

Istanbul on Both Shores

The ferry is the city's best value and its best viewpoint. Three crossings that turn a sprawling place into something you can hold in your head.

A dark mountain glen under heavy cloud with a river running through it

Outdoors

The Case for the Wrong Month

Shoulder season gets recommended for the wrong reason. It is not about saving money. It is that half the places worth going to are better in bad weather.