Search Detour

Start typing to search the archive.

Filter the archive

Athens Is Not Only Marble

Two hours on the Acropolis and three days in the city underneath it. What to do with the other seventy hours, and why the small museums win.

Culture

Train or Plane: The Honest Maths

Door to door, with the transfers, the queue and the hour you lose to security. Where the train genuinely wins, and where the rail romantics are kidding themselves.

Slow Travel

Seville in the Shade

A city built to be crossed without sunlight. Where the awnings are, when the courtyards open, and why the middle of the day is not a write-off.

City Guides

Four Waterfalls and a Wet Coat

South Iceland has more waterfalls than a day can hold. Four that earn the stop, in the order the road gives them to you, and one that does not.

Outdoors

One Stage of the Camino

You do not need five weeks. One good stage, walked properly with a bed booked at the end of it, gives you most of what the whole thing is for.

Slow Travel

Nine Passes, One Tank

A two-day alpine loop that strings together the good corners and skips the tunnels. Where to start, which passes to take in which direction, and when the road opens.

Road Trips

A Cabin With No Road to It

Renting a Norwegian hytte in the off-season: no water, no neighbours, no signal, and a forty-minute walk in with everything you plan to eat.

Stays

Istanbul on Both Shores

The ferry is the city's best value and its best viewpoint. Three crossings that turn a sprawling place into something you can hold in your head.

Culture

The Case for the Wrong Month

Shoulder season gets recommended for the wrong reason. It is not about saving money. It is that half the places worth going to are better in bad weather.

Outdoors

Kyoto Before Seven

The temples are not overrated. They are overcrowded, which is a different problem, and one with an unglamorous solution: get up.

City Guides

Cold Water, Warm Car

Swimming in Scottish lochs between April and October: where the shallow entries are, how long is long enough, and the single rule that matters.

Outdoors

A Month in One Sicilian Town

Staying put is a way of travelling, not a failure to. What a month in one small place does that a fortnight across five cannot.

Slow Travel