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The N2, End to End

Portugal's 738-kilometre spine runs from the Spanish border to the Algarve through almost nothing. That is the appeal, and it needs a week.

Road Trips

A Ryokan, and What to Do With It

A night in a traditional inn has a shape, and most visitors miss half of it by arriving late. The order of the evening, and why dinner is at six.

Stays

The Souks, Without the Panic

The medina is not trying to trap you. Learn four landmarks, accept that you will be lost anyway, and the whole thing becomes enjoyable in about an hour.

Culture

What a Week Actually Costs

A real ledger from seven days in southern Europe, with the two lines that surprised us and the one that always does.

City Guides

Naples, Read Vertically

A city that goes up as much as it goes along. Four funiculars, one hill, and the sense the place makes as soon as you stop treating the map as flat.

City Guides

A Ridge You Can Do in a Day

The satisfying part of mountain walking is the top half. Here is how to get a full ridge day out of a single early start, and what makes one ridge better than another.

Outdoors

Prague on Foot, No Timetable

Four days with nothing booked in a city small enough to cross twice before lunch. What turns up when you stop scheduling it.

Slow Travel

The Coast Road in Bad Weather

Norway's Atlantic Road was built for the storms, not in spite of them. Going in October, when the forecast is the attraction.

Road Trips

A Room at the End of the Road

Lighthouse keepers' cottages, pilot stations and harbour lofts: the category of stay where the building was never meant to be slept in by guests.

Stays

What the Tiles Are Actually For

Azulejos are not decoration bolted onto Portuguese buildings. They are cladding, insulation and weatherproofing, and the pattern comes third.

Culture

One Camera, One Lens

Carrying less gear does not produce better photographs by magic. It produces them by removing the decision that was interrupting you.

Culture

Booking Late on Purpose

Leaving the last three nights unbooked is not recklessness. It is the only way to act on what you learn in the first four.

Stays